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Get My Free PlanDo you actually need a pool closing kit? No. You probably already have the chemicals needed to close your pool. If you don’t, you may only need to buy one or two things.
That said, I’m not against the idea of buying a pool closing it. If you don’t feel like gathering up all the chemicals separately, it’s an easy purchase. These kits are a convenient, all-in-one package to keep your pool clean in the off-season. But you might not necessarily need all of the chemicals inside.
Winter pool closing kits usually come with everything you need to keep your pool protected and algae-free in the off-season, including:
This winterizing and closing chemical kit is designed to save you time and money by including all the necessary chemicals to close your pool. This kit includes winter algaecide, stain prevention, chlorine-free shock, an absorbing sponge, and a pool floater.
Before you buy a kit, here’s a breakdown of what it comes with, which chemicals you actually need to close your pool, and which products you don’t. Watch the quick video below or keep reading for the complete pool winterizing kit guide.
An illustrated, step-by-step guide to taking care of your pool yourself. Works for chlorine and saltwater pools.
Here are the chemicals you actually need to close any pool:
Adding an algaecide before covering your pool is a great way to prevent green water in the spring. This is especially important if temperatures reach 60°F while you still have your pool cover on.
While most kits market their algaecide as a “winter” formula, you might already have the right kind of algaecide on hand.
Look for a 60% Polyquat Algaecide. This is non-copper-based with a powerful enough concentration to kill algae in the off-season. It’s more expensive than a copper-based algaecide, but it won’t stain. And it won’t foam.
A copper-free algaecide to help prevent your pool from turning green.
A Winterizer Ball or Pill slowly releases a blend of enzymes, clarifier, and stain and scale prevention into your water during the off-season. And it won’t affect the rest of your water chemistry.
So if you have water with high metal content or if you struggle with stains, scaling, or scum lines in the spring, this product can help.
And it’s a convenient, easy-to-use alternative to buying enzymes, clarifiers, and stain remover separately. But this is optional, so it’s considered extra insurance for some pool owners.
This 4-in-1, slow-release treatment floats under your winter cover all season to help prevent scum, scale, stains, and cloudy water. Safe for all surfaces and filters.
In addition to an all-in-one Winter Pill, many pool closing kits come with a separate chemical for stain removal and scale build-up prevention.
But the best stain protection for your pool? A solid winter pool cover that keeps debris out of your water. And if you completely clean your pool before closing, you shouldn’t need additional stain and scale prevention.
I always recommend shocking your pool a few days before closing. This helps kill any contaminants, algae, or bacteria, so you’ve got the best chance of opening up to a clear pool in the spring.
Shocking early gives the chlorine time to fully dissolve and circulate through your filter before everything shuts off for the season. Just don’t shock right before closing. You want your filter still running to circulate it, and if you’re using algaecide at closing, you’ll need to wait until your chlorine drops back down to 5 ppm.
And if you need help with shocking, check out our guide on how to shock a pool.
Phosphate removers are marketed as a way to starve algae by removing its food source. But you don’t need this if you’ve cleaned your pool, you have a good winter cover, and you’ve added an algaecide.
These products are found in some pool closing kits to provide ongoing protection throughout the winter. But again, if you’ve already cleaned your pool, balanced your water, and added algaecide, an oil-absorbing sponge isn’t needed.
Many kits come with an oxidizer, a.k.a. non-chlorine shock, to add to your water when closing. It doesn’t need circulating, and it won’t damage your liner or surfaces. But if you’ve just shocked your water in the prep we mentioned before, you don’t need to add pool shock again.
Check to make sure your free chlorine and total chlorine levels are in range. If they are, you don’t need to add an oxidizer.
Whether or not you decide to buy a winter closing kit, you’ll need to do a few things to prepare your pool before adding any winterizing chemicals. And keep in mind that you might need to lower your pool water level below the skimmer, depending on how you plan to winterize your plumbing or what kind of cover you have.
So give yourself a week to complete all of your pool closing tasks, especially if you plan to use chlorine shock. A little extra work now will save you from any pool-opening headaches and algae growth issues in the spring.
Anything you leave floating in your water or clinging to your walls will just get worse over the winter, so give your pool one last clean before closing up.
The goal is to get your water as balanced and healthy as possible before closing. So test your water and adjust your pool chemical levels as you would normally.
Pay extra attention to pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Your pH and alkalinity levels will help your other chemicals do their job over the winter. And imbalanced calcium hardness levels can damage your pool surfaces or equipment.
Enter your water test results. Get a custom treatment plan. Know exactly what chemicals to add to keep your pool clear. Saltwater and hot tub compatible.
Shocking your water will kill any lingering contaminants, especially algae. A cal-hypo shock is the most powerful chlorine shock treatment, but you’ll need to add it at night and wait at least 8 hours to let it circulate and dissolve.
If you want to speed things up, you can use a fast-dissolving chlorine shock, like dichlor shock, or liquid chlorine to shock your water. Just watch your cyanuric acid levels if you use a dichlor shock. Then retest your water and wait until your chlorine levels have dropped back down before adding more chemicals.
Need more help deciding if a winter closing kit is right for you? Here are some common questions and answers.
Once you know the volume of your pool, check with the manufacturer to figure out the right size kit for your pool. Some winter kits include different sizes that cover up to 15,000 gallons or 35,000 gallons.
We recommend using a copper-free algaecide to avoid staining. Look for a 60% Polyquat Algaecide, since its concentration is powerful enough to kill algae all winter long. While it’s a little more expensive than copper-based algaecide, it’s worth it to prevent staining, especially if you have high metal content in your water.
Yes, shock your pool a few days before you plan to add winter chemicals and close your pool. Shocking will kill any bacteria and algae in the water. Use a chlorine-based shock. If you need more help deciding which shock to use, check out our guide on the Best Pool Shock.
If you need more help closing your pool yourself, be sure to check out our guide to How to Close an Inground Pool and How to Close an Above Ground Pool.
Answer a few questions and we'll tell you what to test, what to add, and when.
Get My Free PlanMatt is the founder of Swim University. He's been in the pool and spa industry since 1996. His mission is to make pool and hot tub care easy. Each year, he continues to help people with water chemistry, cleaning, troubleshooting, and more.
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